1,362 Miles of Curves, Storms, and Legends A Motorcycle Journey through the Heart of the Appalachians – by Ezio Cerrato

Leggi in Italiano

Day 1: Heat, Disasters, and Downpours

 1,362 Miles of Curves, Storms, and Legends A Motorcycle Journey through the Heart of the Appalachians – by Ezio Cerrato

The Motorcycles:

  • Harley Davidson Electra Glide Ultra Limited 2013, maroon (Ezio)

  • Honda Shadow VT750 2009, maroon (Gokhan)

Starting Point: Virginia Beach
Farthest Destination: Tail of the Dragon, Tennessee
States Crossed: Virginia, North Carolina, Tennessee
Total Distance: about 1,362 miles (2,190 km)
GPS Route: View on Google Maps

Our beautiful beasts

Map of the ride





Day 1: Heat, Disasters, and Downpours

Today, our first day on the road to Tail of the Dragon, turned into an epic I’ll remember forever—or at least until my soaking wet boots dry out!

I, Ezio, on my trusty Harley Electra Glide Ultra Limited, and my Turkish riding buddy Gokhan, on his Honda Shadow 750 (which felt more like a pack mule today), left Virginia Beach  with a gloriously late start. It was 2 PM and the heat was unbearable, with the asphalt practically melting beneath our tires. At nearly 40 degrees Celsius, we were already walking works of sweaty art.

The real show began when we noticed that Gokhan’s overloaded bike had a bag of tent stakes swinging dangerously like a rodeo rattle. We stopped for gas and to reorganize his wobbly load, and right then, in the most inconvenient moment, Gokhan slipped on an oil patch and crashed his poor Shadow. Luckily, not a scratch—he was fine, the bike was fine. Just his pride took a hit. We spent a good 15 minutes picking up the bike and reloading everything.

After this stellar start, the ride turned surprisingly smooth for a while. We enjoyed the scenery and the peace of not losing any more gear. But calm, as they say, is just the lull before the storm.

While desperately searching for a campground for the night, the sky opened up and we were caught in an apocalyptic downpour. We rode almost 10 miles through torrential rain, our bikes splashing and us blinded by water. When we finally found a hotel and ran inside, we were soaked through, dripping from helmet to boots. It felt like we had just climbed out of a river.

Now we're at the hotel, drying our clothes and soggy souls. What a way to start a trip! If day one was like this, who knows what tomorrow will bring. One thing’s for sure: it won’t be boring!

Ezio and Gokhan before the trip

Happy Gokhan

Thirsty bikes

Gas is cheap or not?

Tomorrow is not raining

Hopeless drying session

Like above



Day 2: Between Biblical Floods and Two-Wheel Heaven

The night at the Days Inn was a drying marathon: Gokhan and I stood with hairdryers in hand, hoping to restore dignity to our soaked clothes. Cranking up the heat? That just turned the room into a sauna without results.

By 9 AM, after checking every weather app on earth, we rolled out under a threatening sky. A few miles in, and like clockwork, the rain started again. Gokhan, with soggy gloves and a soggy mood, refused to put on his rain suit. Minutes later, a real downpour forced him to surrender.

Once dressed like astronauts, we hit the legendary US 58: a dream road for bikers, all twists and turns between the blue mountains. Pure poetry on two wheels.

After 150 miles, we stopped for fuel and phone calls. The sun peeked out. Hungry, we pulled into a random Mexican restaurant in the middle of nowhere. Surprise: it was amazing! We toasted the blue sky with Mexican Coca-Cola and water.

Later, a little mishap: the bolt on my bottle holder had come loose. As I dismounted, my pants snagged on the GoPro and I fell flat on my back in front of everyone. A kind man offered his toolbox and helped me fix it. Problem solved!

Then the GPS decided to lead us down a muddy, washed-out dirt road blocked by a landslide. The supposed campground? Nowhere to be found. After a few failed tries, we found AC Campground: a quiet paradise with deer and a babbling stream.

Almost ready to go

Rain is not a problem with our rain gears .. maybe

Few hairs 

Committed

Sun and maybe muscle

Beautiful lake 

Handsome guy

Beautiful bike and tents

We pray, we honor the fallen

Going up!

Wake up!

Heroes

Heroes too

Happy deer

Same as above

Confortable morning



Day 3: Explosions, Mountains, and a Sad Goodbye

The day started with a mission: find my lost Garmin Virb action cam from the day before. A few miles in, a strange smell grew stronger. At the gas station: there it was, melted and smoking, jammed against the exhaust pipe. When I touched the battery, it exploded! Farewell, my filming partner.

Despite the loss, the ride was spectacular. The Blue Ridge Mountains offered jaw-dropping views. Lunch was at a burger joint with a solid veggie burger (for me) and a dusty Wild West vibe.

The pace slowed: Gokhan rode like a meditating turtle. After three hours nonstop, he gave me a scolding. But we’re two very different riders, and we’re learning.

Later, we passed a long line of police cars. It was a funeral procession for a fallen officer. Quiet. Respectful. Moving.

We arrived at the campground near Tail of the Dragon and set up our tent in silence. Exhausted. Tomorrow, the real adventure begins.

Humid

Foggish

Happy 

Almost at the Tail

Beautiful lake

Same

NC or Tennessee

Yeah

Yeah 2

Tired 

My Moka friend



Day 4: The Dragon Sleeps, but Fate Doesn’t

The night at Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort was unforgettable, mostly thanks to a biker from Minnesota who dominated the conversation. His Road King Harley was stuffed into a trailer full of camping gear, and he regaled us with every motorcycle story imaginable. His only other hobby, he said, was attending Christian music festivals in Minnesota. He showed us thousands of dollars in Harley gadgets and shiny chrome—but not a single tooth in his mouth. We figured women weren’t really part of his universe.

We woke to humidity and the roar of engines climbing the Dragon. Pumped, we geared up for the ride. But just before we started, Gokhan began waving at an American guy—his rear tire was flat. And it was July 4th, America’s biggest holiday!

We had no tools, and his bike had an inner tube. Every mechanic was closed. We even considered leaving the bike behind. Then came Jeff, the same guy who saw the flat. He offered to take the bike in his pickup to his mechanic friend an hour away. That guy agreed to fix it, holiday or not. Unreal. The bike was fixed by noon. Jeff refused payment. Gokhan invited him to Turkey!

Re-energized, we tackled the legendary Tail of the Dragon: pure adrenaline and curves. Then lunch at the resort and off toward Paint Creek Corridor, where wild camping awaited. Another adventure had just begun!

Our saviour

The trailer

The 4th of July mechanic

Start or end of the Dragon

Deals gap

Dragons

Mountains 

Dragons again

Gokhan
Ezio

Hands suntanned

Primitive camping

as above

So cool

So fat

Transparent

Chair



Relax

Resting time

Windows



Day 5: From Paradise to Potholes, and the Long Ride Home

We woke up in our primitive campsite, a magical forest of waterfalls, clear streams, and giant trees. We weren’t alone: Marcy, a peaceful woman tending her fire, and a group of hippies who spent the night smoking cannabis and moving their junky car around for no clear reason.

Gokhan and I jumped in the stream. The water was crystal clear—we could see fish. Yes, we even drank it. Thankfully, no side effects. Just a few bug bites.

Quick pack-up, a selfie with Marcy, and we hit the road. The GPS promised 6 hours and 47 minutes. We did over 10. The roads through Tennessee and North Carolina were among the most beautiful I’ve ever ridden. Sadly, a patchy stretch "Italian-style" made my beloved thermos holder snap off the handlebars. A shame in that heat!

Lunch was at a truly authentic Mexican taqueria. I had a veggie quesadilla; Gokhan, just two tiny tacos. Then, more riding. After countless hours, we reached Buffalo Campground in Virginia. Fully booked.

Options? Expensive hotel... or push through home. We chose home. We rode with headlights on, finishing the final miles in the dark. We reached Virginia Beach at 9:30 PM, completely exhausted but happy.

Five days. 1,362 miles. Endless memories. Tomorrow, it’s back to the office.

Still moka

Leaving the park

same 

Marcy



Gas again

Still me with Decathlon 2 dollar hat .. very good for sweat

Agua fresca

Taqueria

Video of some curves of the Tail of the Dragon




The Motor Therapist

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